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The Mille Miglia or the "thousand miles" has been called the "most beautiful race in the world". Initiated in 1927, the race was canceled for reasons of safety in 1957 and twenty years later was revived as a road rally.
Every May over the course of three days, more than three hundred of the most important vintage racing cars (and some contemporary models) from around the world parade through over 1,000 miles (1,600 km) of Italian roads highlighting countrysides, mountains, ancient villages and city centers including Piazza del Campo in Siena and Piazza Signoria in Florence. Starting in Brescia, Lombardia they travel to Rome and back, winding through the countrysides of the Veneto, Marche and Umbria regions and returning through Tuscany, including Siena and Florence where they pause for a mid-afternoon break. The collection includes pre-1957 models of classic cars from Ferrari, Maserati, Porsche and Alfa Romeo, among others.
The first car passes through Florence in the early afternoon and makes a tour through the center - in 2012 the race is scheduled to cross the Ponte alle Grazie, Lungarno degli Acciaioli and Piazza della Signoria (the exact time and route is subject to change from year to year).
Here are some of our favorite photos from the last couple of years:
One of Florence's newer annual events, the Florence Gelato Festival has been happening for a couple of years now, usually around the end of May.
These comments were about the first festival in 2010:
"We had lots of great gelato, but the lines were long at times and the overall organization seemed a bit lacking. It did seem to be a big success however judging by the number of people eating ice cream. The "Gelato University" put on in Piazza Santissima Annunziata by industry giant Carpigiani was also packed for every lesson."
This year's event (2012) is scheduled for May 23rd to 27th and will take place in the following piazzas:
- Piazza Santa Maria Novella
- Piazza della Repubblica
- Piazza Strozzi
I think last year's edition was better than the first, and maybe 2012 will be their best yet. There is much more going on than just tasting gelato of course - visit the official website for more details (in Italian only).
These photos are from 2010 and 2011:
The Ponte alla Carraia is a five-arched stone bridge spanning the Arno and linking the Oltrarno to the rest of the city. To the west is a weir, the Pescaia di Santa Rosa, and the Ponte Amerigo Vespucci, and to the east is the Ponte Santa Trìnita. The piazzas on either bank are the Piazza Nazario Sauro (south - also the location of the famous Florentine gelateria La Carraia) and the Piazza Carlo Goldoni (north).
The first mention of the bridge (then built in wood) dates from 1218. Destroyed by a flood in 1274, it was soon reconstructed, but fell down again in 1304 under the weight of a crowd who had met to watch a spectacle. It was the first bridge in the city rebuilt after the 1333 flood, perhaps under design of Giotto. Again damaged in 1557, it was remade by will of Grand Duke Cosimo I de' Medici, who assigned the project to Bartolomeo Ammannati.
Enlarged during the 19th century, the bridge was blown up by the retreating German Army during World War II (1944). The current structure is a design by Ettore Fagiuoli, completed in 1948.
There is a fantastic organic food (and more - like wine, textiles, and hand made arts and crafts) market on the third Sunday of every month in Piazza Santo Spirito. These photos are from the Sunday before Christmas, 2011.
Since Italians don't have Thanksgiving to interfere, they get right down to business and start thinking about Christmas in mid-November - the shops are already decorated and pushing their Christmas wares. By December the streets in the center will be draped with lights and Piazza Repubblica will put up the annual Christmas tree. But you really know Christmas is coming when Piazza Santa Croce sets up for the annual German Christmas Market (Heidelberger Weihnachtsmarkt).
Every year the German town of Heidelberg's 500-year-old market comes to Florence with it's holiday tradition and festive atmosphere. Piazza Santa Croce is filled with small wooden stalls selling everything from unique woolens and Bunzlau ceramics to handmade toys and colorful ornaments. It's a great place to pick up stocking stuffers, holiday decorations or unusual sweets.
This market also worth a visit just for the food: you can enjoy some bratwurst and a beer or traditional Heidelberg Lebkuchen cookies and a spiced vin brulè. Our family never misses the merry-go-round style rotating bar which offers a place to relax and look over the festive sights of the market kiosks while sipping the drink of your choice.
November 30 to December 18, 2011 (and approximately these dates every year)
Everyday from 10am to 8pm
Piazza Santa Croce
Calcio Fiorentino or Calcio in Costume - better known here as Calcio Storico - is a traditional football game dating back to the 15th century. A violent mix of football, soccer, wrestling and perhaps boxing, the tournament is played in medieval costume every year from mid to late June. The final match is always held on June 24th, as a celebration of the city's patron saint, St. John the Baptist. The event takes place in Florence's Piazza Santa Croce, where the piazza is transformed into a playing field with a thick layer of sand under the players and bleacher-style stands for onlookers.
The exact origins of the game are unclear, but some believe it began as a way to keep military troops in shape while waiting to go to battle. Later, it became more of a competitive sport for young Florentine aristocrats. The first official rules for the Calcio Storico were written by Florentine Count Giovanni de'Bardi di Vernio in 1580. Each game of the Calcio Storico has 54 players divided into two teams of 27 which are lined up in three rows. After that, it seems there are no real guidelines - just the final objective of making a goal. The round ball is tossed around the field while the players do anything in their power to stop their opponents from making a goal. Punching, tackling, kicking and clawing are all acceptable tactics to stop the opponent (we also saw biting and sand throwing one year!). A goal is made by throwing the ball over 4 foot high wooden wall that runs the length of the field.
The four teams consist of players from four areas of the city: Santa Croce ("Azzurri" or Blues); Santa Maria Novella ("Rossi" or Reds); Santo Spirito ("Bianchi" or Whites); and San Giovanni ("Verdi" or Greens). Needless to say, passionate loyalties fuel the ruthlessness of the tournament.
Before each game, a long procession starts from Piazza Santa Maria Novella at 4 p.m. and makes its way to Piazza della Signora, through Via de'Neri until it finally reaches Borgo Santa Croce. The comradery, pageantry, costumes and trumpets are quite impressive and worth watching even if you don't have the stomach to watch the actual game (which, by the way, requires tickets in advance to get in the piazza).
For a real sense of the atmosphere of the event, we found several well-done videos of the Calcio Storico:
GLADIATORS SPIRIT'S IS STILL ALIVE Calcio storico Fiorentino Take 2 from Brice Ansel on Vimeo.
MODERN GLADIATORS - CALCIO STORICO from David Battistella on Vimeo.
Trattoria Omero in Florence is characterized by a rustic yet elegant environment, offering two spacious dining rooms of each 70 seats and a magnificent terrace with another 45 seats during summertime. Both dining rooms and terrace face splendid views of the surrounding hills.
The menu offers simple but tasty dishes prepared according to the best of Tuscan traditions which include freshly homemade pasta, stuffed pasta, whole wheat pasta, such as "penne strascicate", "pappardelle" pasta in hare sauce, grilled meat, fried dishes, the traditional "bistecca alla fiorentina" steak and "pollo schiacciato" chicken, venison specialities, home made desserts and much more.
LOCATION: Via Pian dei Giullari 11r, Firenze
TELEPHONE: 055 22 00 53
Frommers review of Fuori Porta:
You can dine out on the sidewalk in nice weather, or sit on the benches at tiny wooden tables inside to taste the excellent pizzalike crostini here. Start with the pappa al pomodoro or gnocchi with broccoli rabe and sausage. The crostoni are divided by cheese -- mozzarella, sharp pecorino, creamy goat-cheese caprino -- along with a list of the toppings to accompany them. My favorite is caprino con prosciutto arrosto e pomodori secchi (with goat cheese, roasted prosciutto, and sun-dried tomatoes). The wine is a key part of the meal; the list draws from the more interesting vineyards in Tuscany and beyond. This place is a bit out-of-the-way but worth the trip.
LOCATION: Via del Monte alle Croci 10, Firenze
TELEPHONE: 055 234 2483
EMAIL: info@fuoriporta.it
Antica Mescita San Niccolò is a traditional osteria in the district of San Niccolò where you can order wine with a plate of cold cuts and cheeses, bruschette and carpacci, and you can also savor other uncommon plates from the best of Florentine tradition. Guendalina always greets you with a smile as if you had entered the dining room of her own home. The osteria is also suitable for vegetarians with the best zuppe e minestre (soups). Taste the cream of chickpeas, spelt or stew with porcini mushrooms, and homemade desserts. Don't forget to go downstairs to visit the crypt from the 1000's. Sit at a charming table on the street which leads to Fort Belvedere.
LOCATION: Via di San Niccolò 60, Firenze
TELEPHONE: (39) 055 2342836
EMAIL: info@osteriasanniccolo.it
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