Anthony: September 2007
Poggio a Caiano is a former Medici villa at the foot of the Albano hills. It is on record as being the only surviving architectural structure commissioned by Lorenzo the Magnificent, and became a favorite of his that was used by the family dynasty for centuries. It was also one of the favored summer residences of the grand duchess of Tuscany Elisa Baciocchi Buonaparte, Napoleon's sister, and the possible site of her affair with Nicolò Paganini, who gave concerts in the Villa's theater. It was eventually a summer residence of King Victor Emmanuele II before being turned over to the state.
What sounds like another great restaurant - Trattoria Garga:
"Trattoria Garga is a mecca for citizen food lovers and renowned chefs in their own rights, such as the Food Network's Rachel Ray, who said about Trattoria Garga: "The more I dine out, the clearer the distinction has become between good food and soulful food. Garga has a soul all its own, and the dishes I've eaten here, such as Pasta Magnifico, Veal with Avocado and the famous cheesecake, taste of love, passion and curiosity as much as they do of their ingredients. I dream of this place. Sogni d'oro. Sweet Dreams.'"One of the swankest new places to stay in Florence:
"Scheduled to open in early 2008, Palazzo Tornabuoni (866-753-6667), a stunning renovated 15th-century Florentine palace being divided into apartments, is offering fractional shares from around $230,000."
I take the Eurostar train from Rome to Florence (only one hour and 40 minutes), then change to a slower regional train to Empoli. A caffe latte later and I'm on an even slower two-carriage train with no glass in its windows, to Poggibonsi in the heart of Tuscany. From there a bus to San Gimignano. Within an hour I'll be sharing vino, laughs and tales of the story so far with my friends.
Inside the ancient stone gates of San Gimignano, siesta is over and the place is jumping. The passeggiata (evening walk) has begun and the tiny walled village with its numerous stone towers -- the Manhattan of medieval times -- hums with tourists buying, locals strolling, kids playing. Gelati are being slurped, aperativi tossed back, loud conversations hurled about. The streets are as small, hot and narrow as I remember, but there's an energy here that's exhilarating."