Annual Events

Calcio Fiorentino or Calcio in Costume - better known here as Calcio Storico - is a traditional football game dating back to the 15th century. A violent mix of football, soccer, wrestling and perhaps boxing, the tournament is played in medieval costume every year from mid to late June. The final match is always held on June 24th, as a celebration of the city's patron saint, St. John the Baptist. The event takes place in Florence's Piazza Santa Croce, where the piazza is transformed into a playing field with a thick layer of sand under the players and bleacher-style stands for onlookers.

The exact origins of the game are unclear, but some believe it began as a way to keep military troops in shape while waiting to go to battle. Later, it became more of a competitive sport for young Florentine aristocrats. The first official rules for the Calcio Storico were written by Florentine Count Giovanni de'Bardi di Vernio in 1580. Each game of the Calcio Storico has 54 players divided into two teams of 27 which are lined up in three rows. After that, it seems there are no real guidelines - just the final objective of making a goal. The round ball is tossed around the field while the players do anything in their power to stop their opponents from making a goal. Punching, tackling, kicking and clawing are all acceptable tactics to stop the opponent (we also saw biting and sand throwing one year!). A goal is made by throwing the ball over 4 foot high wooden wall that runs the length of the field.

The four teams consist of players from four areas of the city: Santa Croce ("Azzurri" or Blues); Santa Maria Novella ("Rossi" or Reds); Santo Spirito ("Bianchi" or Whites); and San Giovanni ("Verdi" or Greens). Needless to say, passionate loyalties fuel the ruthlessness of the tournament.

Before each game, a long procession starts from Piazza Santa Maria Novella at 4 p.m. and makes its way to Piazza della Signora, through Via de'Neri until it finally reaches Borgo Santa Croce. The comradery, pageantry, costumes and trumpets are quite impressive and worth watching even if you don't have the stomach to watch the actual game (which, by the way, requires tickets in advance to get in the piazza).

For a real sense of the atmosphere of the event, we found several well-done videos of the Calcio Storico:

GLADIATORS SPIRIT'S IS STILL ALIVE Calcio storico Fiorentino Take 2 from Brice Ansel on Vimeo.

MODERN GLADIATORS - CALCIO STORICO from David Battistella on Vimeo.

Here are some photos from this year's ceramics fair, the "Fiera della Ceramica", in Piazza Santissima Annunziata. This is an annual event that takes place the first weekend of October and is organized by the Arte della Ceramica.

I have highlighted the work of German artist Heiner Bauer who is one of my favorites year after year. His studio is called BABELKERAMIK. Heiner recently secured some new studio space in Italy - I need to get the details from him.

There are also pieces by Stefano Innocenti (no website!) and others.

September is the time for many Florentine and Tuscan events and festivals. One of our favorite nights of the year here in Florence is the "Festa della Rificolona", an evening parade through the streets of Florence, with children carrying paper lanterns lit with candles, while other children shoot the lanterns with pea shooters! (In the modern version these "pea shooters" are hollow metal cylinders and the "peas" are tiny balls of clay or spitballs) The festivals origins are not exactly clear or agreed upon.

Here is some background information from See Tuscany:

And this is from Vive Firenze :

The parade and ending night festival is on September 7th of each year (which is also the Feast of The Madonna), starting in the Pizza Santa Croce and ending up in the Piazza Santissima Annunziata, with a band leading the way.

There are some photos of past parades on the Florence Journal.

May 28 to 31st 2020 witnessed the first annual Florence Gelato Festival. It is slated to be an annual event. We had lots of great gelato, but the lines were long at times and the overall organization seemed a bit lacking. It did seem to be a big success however judging by the number of people eating ice cream. The "Gelato University" put on in Piazza Santissima Annunziata by industry giant Carpigiani was also packed for every lesson.

Since Italians don't have Thanksgiving to interfere, they get right down to business and start thinking about Christmas in mid-November - the shops are already decorated and pushing their Christmas wares. By December the streets in the center will be draped with lights and Piazza Repubblica will put up the annual Christmas tree. But you really know Christmas is coming when Piazza Santa Croce sets up for the annual German Christmas Market (Heidelberger Weihnachtsmarkt).

Every year the German town of Heidelberg's 500-year-old market comes to Florence with it's holiday tradition and festive atmosphere. Piazza Santa Croce is filled with small wooden stalls selling everything from unique woolens and Bunzlau ceramics to handmade toys and colorful ornaments. It's a great place to pick up stocking stuffers, holiday decorations or unusual sweets.

This market also worth a visit just for the food: you can enjoy some bratwurst and a beer or traditional Heidelberg Lebkuchen cookies and a spiced vin brulè. Our family never misses the merry-go-round style rotating bar which offers a place to relax and look over the festive sights of the market kiosks while sipping the drink of your choice.

November 30 to December 18, 2011 (and approximately these dates every year)
Everyday from 10am to 8pm
Piazza Santa Croce