Markets

Florence's bustling Central Market (Mercato Centrale) is a fascinating place to visit, especially for foodies. Located in a towering cast-iron building dating from 1874, its entrances are often obscured by the stalls of the San Lorenzo market that line the street below. Inside are myriad stalls dedicated to the primary ingredients of Tuscan cuisine. Downstairs you will find butchers of all types, with everything from giant pig's feet to whole chickens with their heads and feet to giant, milky-white sheets of tripe. The downstairs also houses gastronomie offering cheeses, cured meats, olives and other delicatessen fare, as well as stalls selling bread, pasta, wine and other grocery items. Upstairs you will find fruit and vegetable stands with a stunning array of fresh produce, dried fruits, nuts and spices. For those who are peckish, this is a great place to buy picnic supplies--some stalls will even make sandwiches to order. Located inside the Central Market, Nerbone, founded in 1872, is a walk-up eatery with a bank of marble-topped tables that is positively swamped at lunchtime and offers cucina povera. Their specialty is panino con bollito, a boiled beef sandwich where the bread is soaked in beef broth. You will find it just inside the far right entrance to the building.

The Central Market is open Monday through Saturday from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m., with additional Saturday hours from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m.

There was a food market set up in Piazza Santa Croce this weekend. Not sure of the exact theme - you can see the banner they had flying below in the pics. All kinds of great stuff, including truffles - we bought a small, wild, white truffle from the guy in the photo below and I made a risotto with it (well I made the risotto with some truffle cheese we also bought from him and shaved the white truffle on top of that). Heavenly paired with this fantastic wine. More on the truffles here: Villa Magna.

We also bought a bottle of Nocino, which is a liquer made from green walnuts. Technically it is a digestif - to be had after a meal. I was introduced to it by some friends last New Year's Eve, they served their home made version, which was fantastic. The bottle we bought seems pretty close. The producer is Poggio alle Lame.

There is always something going in Piazza Santa Croce...

If you find yourself in Florence centro on a Thursday morning, you may notice the beautiful flowers all the Florentines are carrying home to their palazzi. They've already been to the Thursday Flower Market - the place to go for fresh cut flowers for your table, geraniums for your windowbox, rosemary for your kitchen sill or potted olive trees for your city garden.

The selection is extensive and includes everything from herbs and flowers to palms and cactus. We also purchase our Christmas tree there each year. Even if you aren't looking to buy a "mazzo" (bunch or bouquet) of flowers, this market is worth a browse for it's shear beauty.

The flower market is located on Via Pellicceria, starting on the southwest corner of Piazza Repubblica and running south under the arcade and past the post office. The market starts early and all the cut flowers are pretty much sold out by lunch. By mid-afternoon all the vendors are packing up to head back to their farms, so go early. Open all year round.

Florence's second market (after the Mercato Centrale), Mercato di Sant'Ambrogio offers fresh food and other goods, from around 7:00 AM to 2:00 PM every day except Sunday. Saturday mornings are very busy - and some vendors only come on Friday and Saturday.

Outside on the long east side of the market you will find fresh fruit and vegetables, as well as some cheeses and cold cuts, eggs, soaps, honey and more. On the smaller north and south ends there are clothes, shoes, and various household items. Inside are meat, cheese and fish vendors, along with some general grocery, a bar and a trattotria, "De Rocco", which is a great place for an inexpensive lunch.

This is our favorite market - the experience is authentic, the service is friendly, and the there are more Italians than tourists - not to mention great food, and some great prices on produce.

Piazza Ghiberti, near Piazza/Chiesa Sant'Ambrogio