Oltrarno / Santo Spirito

While there really isn't anything undiscovered at this point in the center of Florence, the Oltrarno can still offer some of the more surprising and inventive dining choices when compared to the over abundance of traditional Tuscan fare in the center. From San Niccolò at the eastern end, to outside the Porta San Frediano on the west, with Santo Spirito in-between, there are dozens of good places to eat for both lunch and dinner in all price ranges, as well as plenty of pizzerias, bakeries, fruit and vegetable vendors, etc.

• Antico Ristoro di Cambi
• Bibo
• Borgo Antico
• Cavolo Nero
• Il Santo Bevitore
• iO Osteria Personale
• La Casalinga
• Le volpi e l'uva
• Mamma Gina
• Trattoria Dante
• Trattoria Quattro Leoni

Below is a sampling a items from this category - use the links above to access them all individually.

Il Santo Bevitore

Il Santo Bevitore is not just a trendy restaurant - it is a very good one - with ample reason. The food is excellent, the prices are very reasonable for the center of Florence, the wine list is solid and fair, and the service is professional. Reservations are always recommended, as it can be full even on weeknights. We have had both lunch and dinner here on several occasions, and I can't think of a complaint. The atmosphere is friendly and casual and there are a couple of rooms, one closer to the bar, and a smaller one that is a bit more quiet.

As to the highlights, please see the photos below (taken in May of 2011). To me one of the most attractive aspects of Il Santo Bevitore is that the fare is not just traditional Tuscan. It is inventive and also features a lot of seafood, like raw Branzino and crispy grilled octopus. Also below the starters of purple cabbage soup and tortelli with artichokes, and desserts of rum cream and coconut crème brûlée with gelato. This meal with cover and a very nice bottle of Terlaner Terlano (a white blend) was € 85.

LOCATION: Via Santo Spirito 64/66r, Firenze
TELEPHONE: (39) 055 211264
EMAIL: info@ilsantobevitore.com

Mamma Gina

One of Florence's favorite trattorias, Mamma Gina offers an assortment of traditional, mouthwatering soups, appetizers, pasta and grilled specialties, including the unforgettable florentine steak. The excellent service and ambiance contribute to it's fame.

LOCATION: Borgo San Jacopo, 37r, Firenze
TELEPHONE:(39) 055 239 6009
EMAIL: info@mammagina.it

Trattoria Dante

In the heart of the old Florence, steps from the Arno river, the inviting and typically Florentine ambiance of Trattoria Dante offers cuisine that always uses the freshest ingredients and in season products.

The atmosphere of the past, pizza from a wood burning oven, traditional Tuscan recipes and Florentine influences, a stone cellar full of the best Tuscan wines, a daily and seasonal menu, all complimented by an always cordial greeting. Fresh fish and other delicacies from the sea arrive daily from the seaside. The fresco of Dante and Beatrice, painted on the dining room wall, will watch over you as you dine in the warm candlelight.

LOCATION: Piazza Nazario Sauro 12r, Firenze
TELEPHONE:(39) 055 219219
EMAIL: hani@trattoriadante.co

Trattoria Quattro Leoni

In 1995 the Trattoria Quattro Leoni was rebuilt and enlarged by the clever architect Saverio Innocenti. The Trattoria reopened increasing its Tuscan spirit with its wooden-beam ceilings, stone walls, brick red arches and cotto pavements. The rooms are furnished after the Tuscan tradition: a sober and refined style with straw-bottomed chairs, marble square tables, bunches of withered flowers and laurel hanging on the wall. Passera is wonderful: during this season it is possible to eat outside under a white awning and surrounded by scented laurel-pots and handcraft shops that since many centuries are the virtue of this quarter.

Stefano di Puccio is the actual manager of the Quattro Leoni. He is well known in the city not only for his past activity as a player of the Historical Florentine Soccer, but also for his inclination to cooking, his sincere hospitality and he is a very nice guy.

When welcoming you to the table there will be the delicious appetizers: deep in oil, hot cheesy terrine, artichokes hearts with cheese cream, bresaola and truffle oil, zucchini with stracchino and bresaola and many other things. From the kitchen, many first courses, steak grigliata and tagliate come out with the real Tuscan tradition creating a marvelous menu that varies and is enriched day by day.

LOCATION: Via de' Vellutini 1r , Piazza della Passera, Firenze
TELEPHONE:(39) 055 218562
EMAIL: info@4leoni.com

iO Osteria Personale

A newer and welcome restaurant in San Frediano, iO Osteria Personale offers an upscale and unique menu, with new twists on classic dishes - like carpaccio di manzo with pecorino gelato, tartare of Ricciola on a bed of ricotta topped with spinach, and an amazing chocolate soufflé topped with dollop of olive oil and a pinch of salt, accompanied by basil gelato with a tomato based sauce. It is all extremely well done in a minimal but comfortable and quiet room, with attentive service and a very nice wine list. Their 4 or 5 course tasting menus are a perfect introduction to a unique restaurant you will no doubt want to return to every time you are in Florence.