June in Florence : Giugno a Firenze

There is one historical event that overshadows all others in June in Florence - the "Calcio Storico" or "Calcio in Costume". This is a medieval tradition which has taken place in the city with only mi...
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Travel Tips

Currency Exchange

The best place to exchange - change money (cash) in Florence is with Carlo (or his son Marco) in their tiny shop (actually just a window you walk up to)...

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Maps

Florence ZTL Map

Inside the old city walls of Florence (well, what used to be the walls and is now the "viale" or large avenue circling the city), driving (and parking!) is...

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What's new on Florence-On-Line:

Calcio Storico 2026

In Events in Florence:
calcio-storico-2025.JPG Calcio Fiorentino or Calcio in Costume - better known in Florence as Calcio Storico - is a traditional football game dating back to the 15th century. A violent mix of football, soccer, wrestling and perhaps boxing, the tournament is played in medieval costume every year from mid to late June. The final match is usually held on June 24th (last year it was moved up a bit due to an election). The ev... read more.

Mille Miglia

In Events in Florence:
mille-miglia-map-2026.png The Mille Miglia or the "thousand miles" has been called the "most beautiful race in the world". Initiated in 1927, the race was canceled for reasons of safety in 1957 and twenty years later was revived as a road rally. This year the race takes place from the 9th to 13th of June, featuring hundreds of the most important vintage racing cars (and some contemporary models) from around the world, par... read more.

Orsanmichele

In Museums of Florence:
orsanmichele.JPG Standing on the Via dei Calzaiuoli between the Duomo and Piazza della Signoria, Orsanmichele is one of the strangest and most rewarding buildings in all of Florence. It has been, at various points across a thousand years, a garden (the "Or" in Orsanmichele comes from the word orto - garden in Italian), a Roman temple, a Lombard oratory, a wheat market, a grain warehouse, a miracle shrine, and fina... read more.

Official Florence Museum Websites

In Museums of Florence:
gaddi-torso-uffizi.jpg Official Websites for Florence's Museums: What's Real and What's Not If you've spent any time searching for Florence museum information online, you've probably noticed how confusing it can be. Multiple websites look official. Some claim to be official while actually being third-party ticket resellers. And the Italian government's own bureaucracy has reorganized itself several times over the past ... read more.

Museo Novecento

In Museums of Florence:
museo-nove-cento.jpeg The Novecento (Twentieth Century) Museum is dedicated to Italian art of the 20th Century and offers a selection of around 300 works, which are located in 15 exhibition areas, in addition to a study room, a cabinet of drawings and prints, and a room for conferences and projections, as well as special exhibits on a rolling basis. The museum is located in the ancient Spedale of the Leopoldine in Piaz... read more.

Trattoria Sabatino

In Food & Drink, In San Frediano:
trippa-alla-fiorentina-sabatino.jpg There are places in Florence that exist primarily for tourists, and then there are places that exist for Florence. Trattoria Sabatino, tucked into the Oltrarno neighborhood of San Frediano, falls unmistakably into the second category - or at least, it used to. These days, thanks to a perfect storm of social media and the eternal quest of young American (and other) travelers for "authentic" experie... read more.

iO Osteria Personale

In Food & Drink, In San Frediano:
roast-pigeon.jpg The room sets the tone immediately: a long, narrow space with black banquettes, whitewashed brick, and the spare, uncluttered feel of a Scandinavian design studio. Soft jazz plays at a volume that allows actual conversation. There are no dusty Chianti bottles, no framed maps of Tuscany, no obligatory rustic beam overhead - just wall-mounted blackboards where the kitchen sketches out each dish like... read more.

A new airport for Florence?

In Florence Travel Tips, In Airports:
florence-airport-rooftop-vineyard.jpg Anyone who has passed through Florence's Amerigo Vespucci Airport more than once will have formed an opinion of it. It's small. It's often crowded. The runway is short and awkwardly oriented, aimed more or less directly at Monte Morello, which means a lot of modern aircraft simply can't use it. It has not changed meaningfully since 1999. It is, in other words, a very Italian airport -- functional,... read more.

Boccadarno

In Food & Drink, In San Niccolò:
paccheri-vongole-boccadarno.jpg Boccadarno is one of Florence's best addresses for fresh seafood (which Florence needs more of!), an unpretentious osteria run by Gerardo Ferrigno that brings the flavors of the sea deep into a landlocked city - and does it with both skill and warmth. The menu changes with the catch and the season, but expect beautifully executed dishes like squid-ink rice with cuttlefish and burrata, fried salt ... read more.

Enoteca Pitti Gola e Cantina

In Food & Drink, In Pitti/Boboli:
enoteca-pitti-gola-cantina.jpg A beloved Oltrarno wine bar directly across from Palazzo Pitti, Enoteca Pitti Gola e Cantina specializes in small-production, handcrafted Italian wines selected by owners Edoardo, Manuele, and Zeno Fioravanti. Paired with a concise menu of Tuscan appetizers, cheeses, charcuterie, and handmade pasta, it is as much an education in Italian wine culture as it is a meal. This is a very popular tourist... read more.

Mark Rothko at Palazzo Strozzi

In Allora (our blog):
rothko-strozzi-2026.jpg Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi is presenting one of the most significant retrospectives ever dedicated to Mark Rothko (1903-1970), running from March 14 to August 23, 2026. Curated by the artist's son Christopher Rothko and Elena Geuna, Rothko in Florence was conceived specifically for Palazzo Strozzi -- and the choice of venue is no accident. Rothko first visited Florence in 1950 with his wife Mell,... read more.

Florence American Cemetery and Memorial

In Monuments:
florence-american-cemetery.JPG About seven and a half miles south of Florence, tucked among the wooded hills of the Greve River valley in the municipality of Tavarnuzze, lies one of the most quietly moving places in all of Tuscany — a place most tourists never visit, but every visitor to Florence arguably should. The Florence American Cemetery and Memorial covers roughly 70 acres, framed by wooded hills that rise several ... read more.

Trattoria Vasari

In Food & Drink, In Pitti/Boboli:
trattoria-vasari.jpg On the very busy pedestrian street of Via de' Guicciardini, Trattoria Vasari is the kind of straightforward, no-frills Florentine trattoria that the neighborhood used to have in abundance before tourism reshaped the area. The menu sticks to Tuscan classics executed with reliability rather than ambition, which is exactly what you want after a long morning at the Boboli Gardens. Prices are fair, the... read more.

La Reggia degli Etruschi

In Food & Drink, In Fiesole:
ristorante-la-reggia.jpg Perched in the hills of Fiesole with sweeping views over Florence and the Arno valley, La Reggia degli Etruschi is the kind of place you bring guests when you want to remind them -- and yourself -- just how absurdly beautiful this part of the world can be. The building has its own history to recommend it: a former monastery turned tearoom turned one of the more coveted dinner reservations on the h... read more.

Bistrot al 5

In Food & Drink, In Fiesole:
bistrot-al-5.jpg Perched on the hillside piazza of Fiesole, Bistrot al 5 is one of the more quietly accomplished restaurants in the greater Florence area - a Slow Food member that takes its sourcing seriously without making a performance of it. Chef Enrico Mantovanelli works a seasonal menu built around locally sourced ingredients, and the kitchen has a knack for layering simple Tuscan dishes into something more c... read more.

Osteria di Rocco

In Food & Drink, In San Niccolò:
osteria-di-rocco.jpg Just a couple minute walk form the Ponte alle Grazie, Osteria di Rocco is a straightforward Tuscan Osteria, featuring most of the classic dishes (and some from other regions) that tourists look for. If you've spent the morning at the Boboli or Bardini Gardens, or have been enjoying the San Niccolò area and want a honest plate of pasta and a carafe of house wine without breaking the bank, this is y... read more.

Terrazze Michelangelo

In Food & Drink, In San Niccolò:
pizza-margherita-con-bufala.jpg Terrazze Michelangelo is a restaurant, pizzeria, and event venue perched at Piazzale Michelangelo in Florence, one of the city's most iconic hilltop viewpoints. Set amid the greenery overlooking the city, it offers both indoor and outdoor spaces large enough to host events throughout the year. The venue describes itself as one of those quintessential Florentine night-out destinations -- a lively, ... read more.

Fuori Porta

In Food & Drink, In San Niccolò:
fuori-porta-wine-glasses.jpg Fuori Porta has been a San Niccolò institution since 1987, born out of Andrea Conti's frustration with the state of wine drinking in Florence at the time. In the late '80s, finding a decent glass of wine by the bicchiere was nearly impossible - what passed for house wine in most places was barely drinkable. So Conti did something about it. The original space was tiny - little more than a counter ... read more.

About

Florence-On-Line is an evergreen yet evolving guide to Florence for art, culture, history, and food lovers. Written and curated by former and current residents of Florence, it features in depth knowledge and personal opinions on museums, art, architecture, churches, and events, as well as information and recommendations on where to eat, shop, and stay.

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